Our Anzac Experience
Passing through Turkey, there was no way us Kiwis were going to miss a trip to Gallipoli and Anzac cove. Basing ourselves in Canakkale, we crossed the Dardenelles over to Eceabet, and then a mini bus to Kabatepe. We had decided to do it all on foot to try to get an understanding of the distances and terrain covered by the Anzacs, but took along an audio guide (downloadable from http://www.anzacsite.gov.au/) for the little pieces of history that make it interesting.
For those non Kiwis or Aussies- On April 25th 1915, Australian and New Zealand troops (Anzacs) landed on what is now called Anzac cove on the Gallipoli peninsula in Turkey. Along with British, French and Indian troops, the campaign was aimed at clearing the Dardanelles straight so the Royal Navy could attack Istanbul directly and force Turkey out of the War.
The Frogs asked us whether this was a bit of a pilgrimage for us. Well, yes, in a way, just without the religious connotations. For us it’s the start of the Anzac spirit. A camaraderie we have with our Australian counterparts- realising we had a lot more in common with them than our English ancestors. Reputations were built on those steep rocky slopes. Soldiers who were rugged, enterprising, ready to through away the rule book when needed. . It was the first time both countries had been mobilised on such a scale for an overseas war, and the huge losses of human life devastated both small countries. And it is this day we celebrate every year in NZ and Australia vowing never to forget.
After 3km in the beating heat, we arrived at Anzac cove and could only look wonder how this could have been the base for such a major campaign. Not very big, steep and rocky, Anzac cove became ‘Anzac city’ in a few weeks, covered with supplies, boats, ammunition, and engineering workshops. Constantly in danger of shelling on the beach, some of they ANZACs even went swimming when they got the chance. The Wry Anzac humour came in naming a beach south ‘Brighton beach’- a lazy summer beach near Melbourne. Absolutely roasting we went for a dip in the crystal clear waters, with not a soul on the beach- A very eerie feeling swept over us as nothing remained of the horror and sacrifice that occurred here in such a beautiful setting.
On our way up the hillside, we had to have a little break due to the heat. Max’s head was spinning and he was feeling ill, and the rest of us needed to be careful of the heat. It was a stark reminder of what the Anzacs had to put up with, on top of fighting one of the bloodiest battles ever. After the hottest summer in decades in 1915, the Anzacs faced ice and snow in winter, many being killed just from exposure.
We marched on in the boiling sun up a rough path to Lone Pine cemetery- The main Australian memorial. Here at second ridge, was one of the prequels to the NZ battle for Chanuk Bair. The trenches being less than 100 metres apart, the Australians went over the top to attack the Turks just as the sun was setting in their eyes. After fierce, bloody fighting, only 3 Australians were left in the trench. One had his hands blown off, one was blind, and the last one was throwing back the bombs the Turks were throwing. British reinforcements arrived in the nick of time, as had it been 10-15 minutes more; the ridge would have been lost.
Up in the distance was Chanuk Bair, the highest point the Allies reached. Had the Australians not held-out at Lone Pine to occupy Turkish forces, this would never have been reached. With T-shirts wrapping our heads to protect us from the heat, we carried on the next 3km up to Chanuk Bair and the NZ Memorial. On August 6th 1915 the NZ infantry including the Maori battalion and some British troops scaled the cliffs from the beach to make a daring attack on the Turkish line. They threw themselves at the Turkish defences and although they reached just below the peak that morning, it wasn’t until the next morning Chanuk Bair was officially taken by the Wellington battalion. One New Zealander, an Auckland bank clerk, won a Victoria Cross, and so many more would have been awarded had the officers not died with their soldiers too. It was the first and last time they had seen their goal- the Dardanelles strait on the other side. When they were relieved the next day by British forces, 53 were left from the more than 700 who had gone in the previous day. Two days later Chanuk Bair was retaken by a massive Turkish counter-attack.
Walking down again to the beach, we could only reflect on what a massive waste of human life the campaign was- for both sides. 88% were either wounded or killed for the NZders, 250,000 allied casualties, and about 300 000Turkish casualties.
Anzac day will never again be the same for us. We will remember what happened here in 1915, but celebrate the Anzac spirit that is still so strong today.
