Is food the #1 sport in France?
Having eaten ourselves into oblivion in Brittany, it was time for the next Kiwi-Frog challenge- Hitchiking the 350km from Nevez to Saumur in The Loire Valley. The Frogs were quite eager for revenge after we beat them at Pilou in Nice, and they set off a few minutes earlier than us. Dirty tactics before we had even really started…
In a major diplomatic move, the Kiwis let the Frogs go first in the 350km Hitchhike Challenge from Nevez, Brittany to Saumur.
So we needed an X-factor. Something that would tempt the inner workings of the Frog. Our answer: a massive sign offering free Foie Gras (goose liver) to pick us up. It was a stinking hot day so maybe our lack of success was due to the fact that a Frenchie didn’t want steaming hot odour-infested goose liver in their car. So, 7 ½ hours on the road, a deep red tinge to our skin, being dropped on the autoroute (ever tried to hitchhike at 130-160kmh??), walking some kms along said autoroute, and 5 rides later we were driving into Saumur in chateau country.
The frogs gloated about their 2 hour win (yet to be confirmed by an independent witness) as we sat outside in Antoine’s uncles place with a glass of red wine and another French institution, the locally produced ‘saucisson’ dried sausage. This dry meat taste sensation included flavours ranging from fig to goats cheese and red wine, is yet another culinary masterpiece made from leftover pig. Some have joked that Charles De Gaulle actually created the EU just to protect the local French production of this tough little sausage.
Our French connection did prove to be useful in Saumur. Two of Antoine’s uncles worked for the high-end champagne producer, Gratien and Meyer, perched on the cliffs overlooking the quietly flowing Loire River’s rolling green countryside.
We had felt a little vexed with comments of “Oh you Kiwis have undeveloped palettes” and “you don’t know what good food is!” but this really did prove to be the case when it came to Champagne. Comments like ‘mmm…(long pause)… bubbly!’ were not going to do us any favours. Especially when Benji went for a stab with .. “Mmm, sweet,” and was cut down with… “Actually, it’s a Brut (dry champagne)”. Oops. Sipping expensive, free champagne in the heart of France was definitely a fitting end to our rural French gastronomy lesson.
Being explained the finer details of what to look for in a good champagne or sparkling wine….Kiwi Benji still looks on in confusion.
Some Parisians say that anything outside Paris is ‘the countryside’, and you can see why when the machine that is the ‘Ile de France’ holds ¼ of the French population. We set out to do a day as a tourist, and a day as a Parisian in the capital. There was a little difference in opinions of how exactly this would be organised (yep, we’re still very different cultures!), so we spent half the day with the Frogs, half the day without. Onwards we went hitting the Pere Lachaise cemetery, which was definitely a little creepy seeing near small houses for rich families’ beloved ones. And just like any major city in the world… if you don’t pay your rent, your tomb has to go. Bummer.
The tombs and narrow lanes of Pere LaChaise Cemetery in Paris.
Although decidedly touristy, Paris is a city of sights. You just can’t miss the Eiffel tour, the Arc de Triomphe, or the Louvre. They are partly why this city is considered the most beautiful city in the world. Taking in Napoleon’s tribute to himself- the Arc De Triomphe- is hugely impressive and rich in history, but don’t miss the circus that is ‘La Place de l’Etoile’ and its eight lane 12 exit roundabout. A little bit of ‘organised chaos’ seems to be well engrained in the French.
Onto the Eiffel tower. Originally named a ‘scar on the face of Paris’, Guy de Maupassant allegedly ate at the Eiffel Tower restaurant everyday just because it was the only place in Paris where he couldn’t see ‘that damn tower’. The Frogs confirmed the tower has become a much loved icon in Paris, a little like M Pei’s pyramids in front of the stunning Louvre museum. We then carried on to the Centre Pompidou and its ‘inside-outside’ design, where Max the frog showed us a range of entertaining huffs, puffs, face farts, and rolling of eyes to show his digust. ‘C’est dégueulasse!’ (it’s disgusting!) We thought to ourselves that in this city, you are always trying to push the envelope, create the next world renowned monument, the next Eiffel tower loved by millions. The French love their history and rich culture… just don’t try to change things too quickly. They’re not in a hurry. Maybe the Centre Pompidou just needs a little more time.
Our ‘real day’ in Paris started with a late start (à la française), but we got into town with enough time for a baguette/camembert/saucisson lunch at the Luxembourg gardens. These are stunning, like truly running around in a royal gardens- just don’t stand on the grass. They even have ‘grass police’ with whistles (where do they get their training??) to stop straying onto the lush green lawns. From the tranquillity of the park we received a quick kick in the guts reminder that Paris is a huge metropolitan city. Through the form of deep bass and techno sounds reverberating through the park we caught on–the Gay Pride parade! For 4 hours the parade slowly danced by, and it looked like a lot of fun. I just think there is never really any good excuse for a grown man dancing in just shoes and Y-fronts.
That night we relaxed like Parisians. Buying 3 Euro wine (That’s not a bad wine in France) we headed down to the point of the Ile de la cite as the sun was setting over the seine river, surrounded by students from the Sorbonne, and on the tiny Island on the seine where all of Paris started. It may have even been romantic had it not been for the all male company. Forget the 9.50 Euro beers in a café next to a smoky quay; this was the best seat in Paris. Once the sun had set we headed up to the hill of Montmatre and the national basilica- Le Sacré Cœur. Once a bohemian village close to the city with cafes, bars and the risqué cancan of the Moulin Rouge, it was soon swallowed by the city and has become a tourist Mecca. At night it’s a lot less touristy and you can see why this is the most beautiful city in the world. Sitting on the grass bank below the illuminated white Sacré Coeur, sipping on our 3 Euro wine, overlooking Paris with its monuments lit up amongst the urban sprawl, we enjoyed classic rock songs live. By midnight the busker had a decent crowd, so amongst the swang of French accents, we sung Lou Reed’s ‘Hallelujah’ and Bob Marley’s ‘No women no cry’. And the best thing- it was all free.
The Ile de la Cite- the centre of Paris- in the middle of the Seine and the best seat in the whole city with BYO wine, cheese and bread. Brilliant, and all free.
The Sacre Coeur Basilica lit up at night on the hill of Montmatre. What a back drop to a night overlooking Paris!
So that’s week 4 of the LeapFrog Voyage and the Kiwis insider tour de France. We’ve had a fantastic time with some HUGE learning experiences, but only have one more week to try and understand how these Frogs really tick…
The Top 5
Place: Paris… see the sights…. then go where the French go, off the tourist beaten streets. Sit, have a coffee, and people watch!
Meal: Ile de la cite, fresh bagutte bought from bakery, cheese from cheese shop, saucisson from butcher. Sit on the side of the Seine and enjoy!
Challenge: Hitchkiking… um we lost so don’t have many tips. Just don’t try it on the autoroute.
Story: Arriving at le Sacre Coeur Basilica overlooking Paris at night with our 3 euro red wine, surrounded by students, singing along to tunes from a nearby busker. Brilliant, and free.
